get it in as far as possible, with some lines it's just as easy to make your own loop ends. It's really not as hard as it may seem.
Braided loop connectors
I thought I'd pick some up and give them a whirl. I'm wondering how much of my line to "inch worm" into the braid. Do I put it all the way in so the line touches the loop neck, or do I just put in the first inch and cover it with the heat shrink?
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I had a perfection loop on the line for the longest time but thought I'd give these a shot
11th i make my own loop ends on all my lines. all i do is roll the line backwards on itself creating the "loop" then i use some flexseal or aquaseal and wrap it with tying thread of a colour to match the line. i wrap about 1/2 inch of the line let it dry.
I start the thread by taking it throught the loop then wrapping around to "anchor" it then i add a bit of flexseal. then wrap from the loop backwards however far you want when you reach that add a bit more flexseal then wrap back up towards the loop and stop where you want the size of loop. then whip finish about 6times then add yet another small layer of flexseal.
i have done this to all my trout dry lines as it makes changing complete leaders alot faster and you never have to cut the dry line back. and if im say fishing Pinks on the Squamish i can add a chunk of sinking line to make my own sink tip (which is why i did this the first time) and it works perfect. I have not yet had one of my loops snap or pull apart (knock on wood)
hope that helps
P.S. i bought some of those loop connectors before years ago and they kept breaking on pinks in the Harrison :wallbash: made for a very aggravating day as i used all three that came in the package and then ended up just tying my leader straight on anyway.
I start the thread by taking it throught the loop then wrapping around to "anchor" it then i add a bit of flexseal. then wrap from the loop backwards however far you want when you reach that add a bit more flexseal then wrap back up towards the loop and stop where you want the size of loop. then whip finish about 6times then add yet another small layer of flexseal.
i have done this to all my trout dry lines as it makes changing complete leaders alot faster and you never have to cut the dry line back. and if im say fishing Pinks on the Squamish i can add a chunk of sinking line to make my own sink tip (which is why i did this the first time) and it works perfect. I have not yet had one of my loops snap or pull apart (knock on wood)
hope that helps
P.S. i bought some of those loop connectors before years ago and they kept breaking on pinks in the Harrison :wallbash: made for a very aggravating day as i used all three that came in the package and then ended up just tying my leader straight on anyway.
I also perfer the use of a leader tied in a nail knot onto the fly line then have the loop on the leader material.
Before this gets into an "I like..." thread, I would like to clarify a few things. At one point or another, I've done everything the 3 of you mentioned and, like I said before, I just thought I'd give these a try.
So my original question still stands (thanks for your answer eimaj); how much of the fly line do I insert into the braided line?
So my original question still stands (thanks for your answer eimaj); how much of the fly line do I insert into the braided line?
Feed youur fly line into the braided loop as far as you can. If you are lucky, you can sometimes feed it into the inner braided portion (the tag end of the loop). I bought some braided leader earlier this year and built a few loops for some of my lines, but in the end I found I really prefer a piece of 20# Ultragreen 2" long nail knotted to my fly line, with a perfection loop tied in the end of it. I find it turns over better, but give the braided loop a try and decide for yourself.
Like prof said feed it as far as you can. When I sed them I would make sure it ent all the way to the end. Just watch out when you do the heat shrink. Too much and you could melt the fly line.11th Warrior said:Before this gets into an "I like..." thread, I would like to clarify a few things. At one point or another, I've done everything the 3 of you mentioned and, like I said before, I just thought I'd give these a try.
So my original question still stands (thanks for your answer eimaj); how much of the fly line do I insert into the braided line?
I never use heat shrink on them. Flex-cement on the braided line works just as well and keeps the line more flexible (I think).
They come with the heat shrink stuff. At least they used too.
I know, I just don't use it - stiffens up the line too much for my liking.
Thanks for the help guys. I'm going to use them during my trip to Campbell River today. I'll let you know how they work out.
I gave the loop connector a good workout today and my verdict; I like them. I was able to change my cast (open it up, or close the loop) relatively easily and, being a beginner, that's a huge triumph for me. I've had a perfection loop on the end of my line for quite awhile now and it was "ok", but never really gave me the feeling I wanted during the cast. The loop was about as big as a quarter so that might have had something to do with it. These connectors have a much smaller loop (barely fit a pencil). The connector also adds just a tiny bit of extra weight to the end of my line, which also might help my casting. Either way, I've resigned the fact that I need casting lessons and I'll be taking them in October (through my local rec center...go figure none of the shops offer them)
I inserted the fly line into the braid as far as it would go and put a drop of zap-a-gap on the connection...then I put the heat shrink in place and shrunk it...you can never be too cautious I say, lol. As witnessed by the catching (and release) of 3 pinks today, I think they'll hold on for quite awhile.
Again, thanks for your help guys.
I inserted the fly line into the braid as far as it would go and put a drop of zap-a-gap on the connection...then I put the heat shrink in place and shrunk it...you can never be too cautious I say, lol. As witnessed by the catching (and release) of 3 pinks today, I think they'll hold on for quite awhile.
Again, thanks for your help guys.
Be very careful when using super glues like zap a gap on fly line. The problem with super glues is that they make the line hard and that is where a break can occur as the line has no more flexibility. Better to use aqua seal or the shrink tubing.
Thanks for the advice!
I found this on good ole youtube - http://hk.youtube.com/watch?v=sNKRidC75RI
I used superglue on mine and have had no problems yet.
good vidoar lord said:I found this on good ole youtube - http://hk.youtube.com/watch?v=sNKRidC75RI
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