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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Charging boat batteries ???

Have an automatic battery charger so it protects against over charging the boat batteries. 6 amp charger Some say one should take out the battery from the boat & charge it separately... which I admit I don't do. I just put PERKO SWITCH to off & put positive clip to pos. battery post then neg clip to the neg battery post then plug in charger for 24hrs or so... Do this 1x per wk in the colder weather to each battery which we are getting. 42 F degrees at 6:30am this morning. My question is " Is this an acceptable way to charge the batteries? Should I remove batteries from the boat? Also is it ok to clip to the neg. post with the charger as some say one should find a different "ground" to clip to... But where does one find a neg ground to clip to when the boat is fiberglass etc... I also know this is a good time to add fuel stablizer to our gas tank & staart our motor so stablizer will get into engine fuel hose & keep the fuel good in the tank so in the Spring we will have no starting problems...
 

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Re: Charging boat batteries ???

Not sure about your boat, but I know with my chainsaw, I have to run it about 3 or 4 minutes every month in order to refresh the gas in the carb. The smaller reservoir in your carb apparently allows the gas to destabilize faster than it does in a larger tank. The main reason for not attaching the negative lead to the battery is the danger of sparking. When a battery is charging, it releases hydrogen gas (very explosive) and when rfemoving the lead from the battery there is often a spark which can ignite any hydrogen gas in the vicinity. I have seen this happen once, it blew up the battery and the guy (a BCAA service tech) ended up with battery acid all over him. Since that day I have always attached my negative lead to a point away from the battery and attached it last and removed it first.
 

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Re: Charging boat batteries ???

Thanks professori for the info. Plans to start up outboard every two weeks during the winter months then change fluids aprox March or April... our starting time to get back on the water... mind you hope to still go out a few times yet in Oct. !!!
 

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Re: Charging boat batteries ???

I used to plug a charger in and attach it to one battery then the other, and in the winter pull the batteries out. Finally I bought an on board charger, specifically the Prosport 12, about $139.00. It is permanently attached and wired to the boat. Now when I park the boat I just plug it in and everything is taken care of, and I leave it plugged in until I go out again. No more hassle. ;D
 

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Re: Charging boat batteries ???

Proff is bang on, :D the idea of removing the battery into an open area reduces the risk of
built up gases. The number one hazzard on any boat is fire.

Marko
 

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Re: Charging boat batteries ???

As long as you plug the charger into AC power after the Batt. is connected, there shouldn't be a spark. Then your at least 6' away. No need to remove the Batts.

:cheers:
Baiter
 

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Re: Charging boat batteries ???

I bring them in from the cold and place them on wood in the basement, and throw the auto charger on once a month or so.

also never leave your battery on the concrete floor.
don't smoke while the batt. is charging.
and always close your eye's or turn your head when disconnecting.
 

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Re: Charging boat batteries ???

I've learned from each & everyone of your insightful "posts" so now I charge my batteries with more of a peace of mind...thank you... Check batteries just the other day & added alittle water to each cell .... plus they are now fully charged... Going to try to make these batteries last longer as my other boat batteries got max. 2 yrs but with proper care should double that to 4 yrs at least HOPEFULLY.
 

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Re: Charging boat batteries ???

What you have are flooded cell lead/acid batteries and, yes, you can charge them in the boat if you have ventilation. A flooded cell battery should last a good five seasons if they’re maintained well. Problem with them is the water evaporates in a charge cycle (on a charger or when it’s getting juice from the engine) and if the plates are exposed to air they’re dead.

What we’ve noticed at Brigantine marine is many are swapping out flooded cell batteries for Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) batteries. They cost a little more yet they hold a charge longer, aren’t affected by vibration, don’t outgas and can be put in at any position. Plus they’re lighter and if you want to lower the weight at the transom and are running two batteries (start and house) you can save up to 75-80 lbs. That’s just under the weight of a kicker.

There’s more on AGM batteries at one of the makers: Optima http://www.1st-optima-batteries.com/

MichaelR
 

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Re: Charging boat batteries ???

MichaelR Wow! That is really a great insight !!! Alot of Arima Boat Owners on their site have expressed time to time that they want to lighten the stern area. The Arima boat has a big built in stern gas tank...then add in two heavy batteries in the corners... a heavy 4 stroke outboard then the weight of a kicker... all that adds up to alot of lbs back there. Some even sujjested to put the batteries up front but the bow area gets alot of voilent up & down movement...hitting waves etc...so do not think it's a very good idea. I like a light stern because if there's 4 or 5ft or more following seas I want the stern to float up quickly.... so took out the big gas tank & just use portables. Alot less weight. Only do 25 to 30 mile trips max anyways so didn't need a huge tank. But switching to AGM batteries & one can lighten by 75 to 80lbs ... that is a BIG PLUS !!! Will pass on this info to other boaters... "thanks"
 

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Re: Charging boat batteries ???

In boats there is no external ground around a battery unless you have an inboard in such case you can move the ground to the block. If you have an aluminum boat the hull IS NOT A GROUND! the agm batteries are great but make sure they have a good enough MCA rating for your motor. Newer EFI and DI motors require at least 1000CCA or else you can damage the ecm or in the case of a verado they won't do anything. I wouldn't leave a charger on for 24 hours, make sure you check on it regularly for if the acid starts to boil it makes a mess and is an explosion hazard.
Another note would be to make sure all the fluids are changed BEFORE the boat goes to bed for the winter. This does two things one it removes all the contaminants so they cannot sit and rust aways or create sludge and two (especially in the case of gear cases) they make sure that there is no water. If there is water in your gearcase and it freezes then you will be looking at an expensive fix or a whole new gearcase. $10 of gear lube is cheap compaired to a new gearcase. The engine should also be fogged. In our valley we see a lot of moisture which means condensation in the block (especially two strokes) and this will create rust and pits which cause failures. Fuel tanks should be 90% full and no more and stabilized. The fuel should be ran through the system. This is very important especially with ethanol blended fuels and their dreaded phase separation process which will CREATE water in your fuel system. Fuel stabilizer and a fuller tank will prevent this (full tank...no more than 90% to allow for expansion in warmer temps....keeps the amount of atmosphere in and out of the tank ,as the fuel expands and contracts, to a minimum, because the more fresh oxygen the fuel gets the faster the separation process and the faster fuel goes stale)
 

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Re: Charging boat batteries ???

Chrome Assassin said:
My friend tells me never to leave my batteries on th cocretee floor as well, why is that?
the guys from interstate say that nothing will happen to batteries on concrete...nor do they need to be put on wood... like CCM said... the inboards do not work well with AGM batteries...you will get a good year out fo them tops....and EFI can be an issue
 
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