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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
If figured I would make this a spin-off of the downrigger, lines, and black box threads.

On a black box thread:
What voltage do herring give off?
Well I am no biologist but I imagine that it could be measured (googled: turns out it can with a EMG). Fish move using muscles. Muscles are controlled by electrical stimulation from the brain via nerves.
Now fish are well adapted to sense such fields.

From WIKI:
Electroreception simply means the ability to detect electrical currents. What does electricity have to do with fish's underwater habitat? Any muscular movement or twitches in living animals and fish create small electrical currents. At hospitals, electrocardiogram machines track the electricity resulting from ourheart beating.
Now..... Fish can see really well. A human can see 20/20 but if said person stood in the fog the vision capability is greatly reduced. This is where the electrolysis come in...... just as in times where a human in reduced visibility will resort to their other senses to compensate..... Hearing, smell, and face (if you didn't see that stair, root etc.)

What is electrolysis? This, along similar lines:

Now replace the citric acid with salt water(an acid) and the zinc/copper with lead, stainless, zinc and aluminum. (common metals found under the waterline of a boat) It does the same thing.
With a boat with good/enough zinc and well grounded you should fall into and acceptable voltage range for fishing salmon. Minor changes to the gear will allow you to fine-tune the natural voltage of the boat. Shining up the leads, metal or plastic clips, gangion lines ( Nog might have better info on the latter as I have never had the need to play with that on the sport rig... And never touched it on the commie boat)

I hear that for springs you need X voltage, coho Y voltage...... blah blah blah. While I do not feel this is untrue I found through all this playing that for me it wasn't matching the voltage to the fish rather matching the voltage to your fishing style. Every one does stuff a little different. I do my best spring killing at.48-.52v If I go on either side of that the catch rate goes down. Sometimes the fish really aren't there but if there is other boats(usually the same ones) catching and you are not, something is up. Check over the set up and make sure everything is good. I have seen boats that have needed black boxes.(for some reason namely early welded aluminum boats) but probably 99% of them don't so a black box would kind of be a band aid repair to a different problem.

For braided line...... you lose that voltage. I know people will use and swear by it, that is fine with me. I would rather have fish come to my area to see whats going on, than them have to see whats going on. If there is a good amount of fish around you will catch them. But if its scratching time and you only see the odd fish caught for a bunch of boats it will better your chance the have one of those odd fish in your bucket.

A story:
A couple years ago my buddy had three tickets to the JDF invitational, He wanted a third downrigger. I lent him one of mine. His with braid and mine with wire out the stern. They caught three fish that weekend and yes, all on the wire. The braid was off like a prom dress Sunday night. He is a born again wire liner.

I still have never seen any form of braided on the gurdies of a comercial boat (Nog?) and if it wasn't important to make a buck, I am sure Malcolm Russell wouldn't be such a busy guy.


I could be wrong and YMMV
It works for me:cheers:


This thread is all things electrical... carry on
 

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OK So I have been doing some homework on this....

I need to first determine voltage between the -ve battery terminal and the down rigger wire. For kings it needs to be some where in the range between 0.45-0.65 (there seems to be some different opinions on this.

I have some questions on this...

Should the downrigger ball be isolated from the cable using a rubber snubber

Should the downrigger ball be coated in plastic, if it is raw lead it should be coated with something like truck bed liner?

If you don't use a black box how to you adjust the voltage (adding/removing zinc anodes to the hull)?

Surely this voltage varies depending on whether or not you are in an estuary situtation/harbor/open sea as salt conc's will vary?

Is there an accepted minimum distance that gear should be set back from the ball to make the most of the field?

Cheers in advance for your thoughts and ideas
 

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Keep in mind this is IMO and they will vary for sure...lol

A snubber can be used but I find they are better used for accidental contact with the bottom. The plastic or nylon clip that comes with say a Scotty works just fine.

I use uncoated cannon balls but I think I might pick up a few black coated ones only because I like the looks of them lol .....not for any other reason.

Zincs are just sacraficial anodes and are only there to protect the rest of the metal in the water on your boat by giving up free electrons easily. Making sure everything is bonded will help more.

The voltage will not vary much as long as the water is conductive.....however the field size will change.

The accepted distance back will definitely be up for debate......especially depending on fishing depths, boat speed etc. I for one an about a 20 foot guy for what it's worth?

This post is sure to bring out a lot of opinions.......it should be good! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
As Reelslim says there is a lot of variables.... And will vary to each angler and their style

OK So I have been doing some homework on this....

I need to first determine voltage between the -ve battery terminal and the down rigger wire. For kings it needs to be some where in the range between 0.45-0.65 (there seems to be some different opinions on this.

I have some questions on this...

Should the downrigger ball be isolated from the cable using a rubber snubber (I always go straight to the lead. Plastic clip will raise your voltage metal ones lower it. I havent tried a gangion line (basically a snubber) but would bet that it will effect the voltage in some way.)

Should the downrigger ball be coated in plastic, if it is raw lead it should be coated with something like truck bed liner?( I have only fished raw. Cleaning the lead with a scouring pad changes the voltage)

If you don't use a black box how to you adjust the voltage (adding/removing zinc anodes to the hull)? (Zincs in good shape fish the best. If you go through them quickly add some more. If they are almost eaten away the boat will fish a lower voltage. It will do the same with worn out stainless lines)

Surely this voltage varies depending on whether or not you are in an estuary situtation/harbor/open sea as salt conc's will vary?(never checked myself but would bet that is true)

Is there an accepted minimum distance that gear should be set back from the ball to make the most of the field? ( I fish a lower voltage than most, I fish slower and right up to the leads (10-15ft) I do notice a difference if I drop them back farther than that)

Cheers in advance for your thoughts and ideas
It was a lot of experimenting and re-checking for me
 
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