I second that! I've got the SLT 590 and it's my favorite trout rod hands down! I've got a Hardy LRH Lightweight that goes with it and they look "stunning" together. As for Hardy reels - it's more of a "classic" look and feel for me. I personally like the old Marquis - Stone, I know you've got a Marquis that you use for trout - isn't that right? I've got an old Marquis #7 that I've "retired" - but it still works great. I now use the Ultralight disc and Ultralight Disc Large Arbor for my salmon/steelhead rods. These are very smooth running reels that have never given me a problem on the water. Unfortunately, Hardy discontinued these models. Not sure about the current Hardy reel line. I agree that it's not everyone's cup of tea - but I love them too! :thumbup:stone said:Nice rod! The SLT is one of my favorite series that Sage produces. :thumbup:
As far a reel in that price range, there's several that would fit the bill. Bauer Mackenzie Super Lite M4SL. Nautilus Reels puts out a nice product. Ross Big Game 4. Islander Reel. There's so many... ;D
My 8wt has a 3.75" Hardy Bougle Mk 4 on it, and I just picked up a Gem MK II for the 9140 and to fish the salt...but Hardy is not everyone's cup of tea. I love them, though.
Since your rod is an 8wt, pressumably you will be using it to target larger species like our Pacific salmon and steelhead. These harder fighting fish deserve a quality reel with tight tolerances, a powerful disk drag, and a large arbor. If backing capacity becomes an issue, you can always use a superbraid material similar to Fireline or gel spun backing. I did this exact same thing with my Bauer Mackenzie Superlite M4SL when I loaded it with a RIO 8wt Versitip.In physics and engineering, mechanical advantage (MA) is the factor by which a mechanism multiplies the force put into it. Following are simple machines where the mechanical advantage is calculated.
Wheel and axle notion (e.g. Screwdrivers, doorknobs): A wheel is essentially a lever with one arm the distance between the axle and the outer point of the wheel, and the other the radius of the axle. Typically this is a fairly large difference, leading to a proportionately large mechanical advantage. This allows even simple wheels with wooden axles running in wooden blocks to still turn freely, because their friction is overwhelmed by the rotational force of the wheel multiplied by the mechanical advantage.
Woody: A good cork disk drag with a large surface area and a wide adjustment range, such as those found on Islander and Abel reels, will be powerful and silky smooth. They do, however, need regular maintenance to keep them working well. I noticed that on my Bauer reels, if I neglected to oil the cork drag pad, or oiled it too much, the drag would occassionaly "skip" (momentary freespool). This was not a good thing, especially when it happens when you are fighting a large fish...it makes a mess of your spool.woody said:Thanks for the info guys the more input I get the better informed decision I can make so all input is much appreciated. I will be targeting bigger fish with this rod of course so it looks like a large arbor reel is definitely the way to go and it sounds like the cork drag is the drag system I should be looking for though I also heard there was a carbon fiber drag as well any opinions on the best drag system?
Not all 8wts are created equal. My cousin has used my 8wt Winston XTR on the Kenai in Alaska, and he told me he accidentally foul-hooked a large spring and it bolted to current. He horsed it back in with my rod and managed to get his fly back. Bent the rod right down to the cork, and other anglers watching were betting on when it would break...but it never did. The boron fibers in the butt section make the rod exceptionally light and strong. I wouldn't have any hesitation playing any size salmon on it any time.xgolfman said:I think an 8wt is not enough for salmon...I have seen quite a few broken by chums...and if your thinking of going bigger fish???